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Fashion Design and Sketching


1. Introduction to Fashion Design

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, and natural beauty to clothing and accessories. It involves creating new clothing concepts, selecting fabrics, colors, and patterns, and producing sketches or prototypes to bring ideas to life.


2. The Role of Sketching in Fashion Design

Sketching is the visual representation of design ideas on paper or digitally. It is a crucial step that helps designers communicate concepts before production.

  • Types of sketches:

    • Croquis: A quick, rough figure drawing, usually of a fashion model pose, serving as a base for design details.

    • Flat sketches (technical flats): 2D drawings showing garment details like seams, stitches, and trims from different angles.

    • Illustrative sketches: More artistic, showing how garments flow and fit on a model, often with color and shading.


3. Tools and Materials for Fashion Sketching

  • Pencils, markers, colored pencils

  • Technical pens and fine liners

  • Watercolors, gouache, or digital tablets with stylus (e.g., iPad with Procreate)

  • Sketchbooks or digital sketching software


4. Elements of Fashion Sketching

  • Proportions: Understanding human anatomy and elongation for stylized figures.

  • Lines: Define silhouette, texture, and movement.

  • Shapes: Use geometric or organic shapes to convey garment structure.

  • Color: Communicate fabric choice, mood, and theme.

  • Texture: Indicate fabric types (e.g., shiny silk vs. rough denim) through shading or patterns.


5. Steps in Creating a Fashion Sketch

  1. Draw the croquis or basic figure.

  2. Add garment outlines—sketch shapes and silhouettes.

  3. Detail the garment—draw seams, darts, buttons, zippers.

  4. Add textures and patterns.

  5. Apply color and shading to highlight fabric types and volume.


6. Digital Fashion Sketching

Modern designers often use digital tools for faster iteration and collaboration. Common software includes:

  • Adobe Illustrator (for vector flats)

  • Photoshop (for illustrative sketches)

  • CLO 3D, Browzwear (for 3D garment simulation)


7. Importance of Fashion Sketching

  • Facilitates communication with pattern makers, manufacturers, and clients.

  • Helps refine design ideas before costly sampling.

  • Acts as a portfolio piece showcasing designer creativity and skills.

Fabric Colouration


1. Introduction to Fabric Colouration

Fabric colouration is the process of adding color to textiles to enhance their appearance and appeal. Colouration can be done at different stages of fabric production and involves various techniques, depending on the fiber type, fabric construction, and desired effects.


2. Types of Fabric Colouration

2.1 Dyeing

  • Definition: Immersing fabric or yarn in a solution containing dyes that chemically or physically bond to fibers.

  • Types of Dyeing:

    • Fiber dyeing (stock dyeing): Coloring fibers before yarn spinning (used for wool, cotton)

    • Yarn dyeing: Dyeing yarns before weaving/knitting (e.g., checks, stripes)

    • Piece dyeing: Dyeing finished fabric (most common, cost-effective)

    • Garment dyeing: Dyeing finished garments (used for fashion flexibility)

2.2 Printing

  • Definition: Applying color patterns on fabric surface using various methods without dyeing the entire fabric.

  • Types of Printing:

    • Block printing: Using carved wooden blocks

    • Screen printing: Using mesh screens to transfer dye

    • Rotary printing: Continuous printing with engraved rollers

    • Digital printing: Inkjet-based printing for high detail and custom designs


3. Types of Dyes

  • Reactive dyes: Chemically bond with fibers (mostly cotton)

  • Acid dyes: Used for protein fibers (wool, silk)

  • Direct dyes: Simple application, used for cotton and paper

  • Disperse dyes: For synthetic fibers (polyester)

  • Vat dyes: Insoluble dyes made soluble for dyeing, used for cotton (e.g., indigo)


4. Factors Affecting Fabric Colouration

  • Fiber type: Different fibers absorb dyes differently

  • Fabric construction: Knitted vs. woven, density

  • Temperature and time: Influence dye uptake and fastness

  • pH and chemical auxiliaries: Affect dye bonding

  • Mordants: Chemicals used to fix dyes on fibers, especially for natural dyes


5. Colour Fastness

  • Definition: The resistance of fabric color to fading or running when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, etc.

  • Testing includes:

    • Wash fastness

    • Light fastness

    • Rubbing/crocking fastness

    • Perspiration fastness


6. Environmental Considerations

  • Textile dyeing is water and chemical intensive

  • Increasing focus on eco-friendly dyes, low-impact dyeing processes, and water recycling

  • Use of natural dyes from plants and minerals is also growing for sustainable fashion

Garment Construction: The Art and Science of Creating Fashion

Garment construction is a foundational element in the field of fashion design, representing the intricate process of transforming a designer's vision into wearable clothing. This discipline combines creativity, technical precision, and craftsmanship to create garments that are not only visually appealing but also functional, comfortable, and durable. Whether for high fashion, ready-to-wear, or mass-market production, garment construction is where design ideas become tangible realities.


Definition and Importance

At its core, garment construction refers to the entire process involved in assembling a piece of clothing, from the selection of fabric to the final finishing details. This includes pattern drafting, fabric cutting, sewing, fitting, and finishing techniques. Understanding garment construction is essential for any fashion designer, tailor, or apparel manufacturer because it directly affects the fit, appearance, and quality of a garment.

The construction quality of a garment not only determines its longevity but also reflects the brand's standards and craftsmanship. Well-constructed garments enhance the wearer's comfort and movement while maintaining the integrity of the design. Conversely, poor construction can ruin even the most innovative designs.


Stages of Garment Construction

  1. Design and Pattern Development

    Before construction begins, a garment starts with a design concept. This idea is translated into technical drawings and then into patterns—the templates used to cut fabric pieces. Pattern development may involve:

    • Flat pattern drafting using measurements

    • Draping fabric on a dress form

    • Using digital pattern software for precision

    Accurate patterns are essential for proper fit and balance.

  2. Fabric Selection and Preparation

    The choice of fabric is critical. Fabric determines how a garment behaves, how it drapes, how it feels against the skin, and how it responds to stitching and finishing.

    Once selected, fabrics are:

    • Pre-shrunk (if necessary)

    • Pressed and laid flat for accurate cutting

    • Checked for grain alignment to prevent warping

  3. Cutting

    Precision in cutting fabric pieces ensures a smooth construction process. This can be done manually or using computer-controlled cutting machines. Each part of the pattern is laid out with attention to grain lines, pattern direction, and seam allowances.

  4. Marking and Notching

    Markings are transferred from the pattern onto the fabric to indicate darts, pleats, notches, and other construction details. Notches help match fabric pieces during sewing, ensuring accuracy.

  5. Sewing and Assembly

    Sewing is the most labor-intensive stage. Depending on the garment's complexity, it may involve:

    • Joining major components (e.g., bodice to skirt)

    • Creating details like collars, cuffs, and pockets

    • Inserting zippers or buttons

    • Applying interfacing for structure

    Sewing techniques vary widely, from machine stitching for efficiency to hand stitching for delicate detailing.

  6. Fitting and Adjustments

    Once the garment is assembled, it undergoes fitting. The designer or tailor assesses:

    • Fit and proportion

    • Balance and symmetry

    • Comfort and ease of movement

    Alterations are made to refine the garment before final finishing.

  7. Finishing

    Finishing includes all final touches:

    • Hemming the edges

    • Pressing seams for neatness

    • Lining for comfort and durability

    • Topstitching, trimming, or embellishment for aesthetic appeal

    Proper finishing elevates the overall quality and presentation of a garment.


Techniques in Garment Construction

Garment construction includes a wide variety of techniques that depend on garment type, fabric, and desired effect. These include:

  • Seam types: plain, French, flat-felled, and overlocked

  • Darts and pleats: for shaping and volume

  • Facings and linings: for a clean interior finish

  • Closures: zippers, buttons, snaps, and hooks

  • Hand sewing techniques: slipstitch, blind hem, and basting

  • Serging and overlocking: to prevent fraying and improve durability

Advanced techniques such as couture sewing, boning, padding, and bias cutting are used in high-end garment construction to achieve intricate details and structured silhouettes.


Tools and Equipment

Garment construction relies on a range of tools, from basic to advanced, including:

  • Sewing machines (industrial and domestic)

  • Dress forms and mannequins

  • Shears and rotary cutters

  • Measuring tools: tape measures, rulers, French curves

  • Marking tools: chalk, tracing wheels

  • Pressing equipment: irons, pressing hams

  • Hand sewing needles and threads

Technological advancements now include CAD software for pattern drafting and automated sewing machines, improving accuracy and production speed.


Role in Fashion Design and Industry

Garment construction is central to the fashion design process. Designers who understand how garments are built can better communicate with pattern makers, sample makers, and manufacturers. This knowledge helps them:

  • Create feasible designs that can be produced efficiently

  • Choose appropriate materials and techniques

  • Control the cost and time of production

  • Ensure quality standards are met

In the fashion industry, the ability to produce well-constructed garments impacts a brand’s reputation. High-end brands emphasize hand craftsmanship and detail, while fast fashion focuses on speed and scalability—but even then, construction quality affects customer satisfaction and return rates.


Sustainability and Innovation in Garment Construction

With growing attention on sustainable fashion, garment construction methods are evolving. Designers and brands are adopting:

  • Zero-waste pattern cutting

  • Modular garment construction (pieces that can be reconfigured)

  • Recyclable and biodegradable materials

  • Minimal-seam garments to reduce labor and fabric waste

Innovations such as 3D printing, digital prototyping, and smart textiles are also influencing the way garments are constructed, allowing for more customization, speed, and sustainable practices.


Conclusion

Garment construction is a vital aspect of fashion that combines artistic vision with technical skill. It bridges the gap between concept and creation, turning sketches into wearable, functional designs. Mastery of garment construction not only empowers designers to realize their ideas effectively but also upholds the standards of quality, fit, and craftsmanship that define great fashion.

As the fashion industry continues to evolve with technology and sustainability in mind, the principles of strong garment construction remain timeless—essential for both the classroom and the catwalk